Sunday, October 20, 2013

'Modish' Fifth Avenue Styles for Spring and Summer 1927

This magazine by Hamilton Garment Co. of Fifth Avenue in New York City was another inexpensive find at a flea market many years ago. The  original mailing envelope for placing an order is still inside.



The inside front cover proclaims they were "on FIFTH AVENUE and style specialists for over ten years!" They guaranteed the lowest prices in America with 24 hour service. "The Hamilton Fashion Magazines Bring to Your Door--No Matter Where You Live--The Very Newest and Smartest Creations from New York and Paris!" A later page claims they offered "copies of the most expensive imported models."



I loved seeing "for the Modish miss and Matron" page, saying that the fashions were perfect for the well developed figure, concealing well developed hips with a slim silhouette. To my mind, the dropped waist and lack of bust dart were definitely not well tuned to a full figured woman! The models below are not stout, but they look as wide as all Kansas.



The corsets were covered with rubber and had double boned diaphragm fronts. "Surgical" elastic "holds the flesh firm and massages it away."


I adore the 'Baby Betty" play clothes and dress frocks. The sweet short dresses with little pantaloons underneath, the round high collars, and bobbed hair of the models are adorable. And of course those white socks and Mary Jane patent shoes!



Little boys could wear a nine piece Cowboy outfit, a four piece flannel baseball suit, khaki jean Oliver Twist suit with knee length pants and "college sport" belt.  Also available was a cut sailor suits of several styles.


I noted the "Peggy Cloth" plaid wash suit on the left fashion above. I just shared a Peggy Cloth book from 1947.  Peggy Cloth was not a designer or manufacturer of the Peggy Cloth books, it was a fabric type. A Goggle search showed up several ad from the 1920s for Peggy Cloth, sold for sturdy children's rompers and clothes, at 17 cents to a dollar a yard.

"Innovative" spring coats sported ombre plaids, gauntlet cuffs, and wide labels with fur lining. Colors included Mother Goose tan, Queen Blue, Palmetto Green, and other 'spring' hues. I love the idea of an ombre plaid.


There is wonderful embroidery and pleating details in the gowns, slips, and bloomers.


All that cropped hair made hats important accessories.



Heels were very practical. In size and height the heels looked like what I wore to school in the late 1960s.


They had special shoes for the 'stout ankled' women!



I love the Bonnie Girl outfit on the left in the above page. 

My grandmother Emma Becker Gochenour sported these slim hipped fashions in old photographs. She had wild red hair, like all her siblings, which was bobbed short.




Emma Becker and Al Gochenour married in 1926, a year before this catalog was published. Emma was a factory worker and Al a salesman.


Saturday, October 19, 2013

Sci-Fi and Fantasy Media and Literature Pattern Source


DW-SAL-Badge

I stumbled across a great blog called "Fandom in Stitches." They offer paper pieced patterns, for free, by fans of various literary and media Sci-Fi and fantasy cult classics.

I downloaded the Dr Who embroidery patterns. My husband was a big fan way back, and we'd watch the Doctor together. Here is the page on their Dr. Who 50th Anniversary Stitch Along:  http://www.fandominstitches.com/2011/05/doctor-who.html

I can't wrap my head around the technical thought behind paper piecing, but I may need to figure it out because there are some wonderful patterns here. Star Trek, Star Wars, Harry Potter, Sherlock Holmes, The Hobbit, Lord of the Rings, Vampires, TV children's cartoons, Comics, Games & Tech, Disney and more can be found here. They also are looking for contributing designers and have a wish list from fans.

You can find them on Facebook. The Fan Followers photo are shared on Flickr at:
 http://www.flickr.com/groups/fandominstitches

Here is Fandom in Stitches website: http://www.fandominstitches.com/

Here are Harry Potter blocks from Jennifer's blog: http://sewhooked.com/harry-potter/

Here is the Sewhooked shop: http://sewhooked.com/shop/

Here is Jennifer's Crafty shop: http://www.craftsy.com/user/470750/pattern-store

From their blog:
  • Fandom In Stitches is owned and edited by Jennifer Ofenstein of Sewhooked http://sewhooked.com/. Other authors are designers Michelle Thompson and Lilja Björk Sigurdórsdóttir.
  • While we are fully aware that we can't stop you from selling items made from Fandom In Stitches' patterns, we ask most emphatically that you do not, unless it is for a fundraiser or non-profit (please see next question). As long as no one is profiting from our patterns, our use of fandom images, all of which are copyright or trademarked by the originators/authors/etc., we are relatively safe under the broad allowance made under U.S. trademark laws (we have this from a bona fide trademark lawyer!). By not selling items made from FiS patterns, we are in no way competing with or profiting from the fandoms we love. We would absolutely hate to lose our ability to share these patterns with you because someone decided to profit from them. One cease and desist letter would likely be enough to shut us down.

Thursday, October 17, 2013

A Gift of Handkerchiefs

Last Sunday a friend gave me her mother's handkerchiefs. She had seen my handkerchief quilts on my blog. She kept the ones she remembers her mother using, mostly white linen with tatting. These are a nice selection of typical mid-century handkerchiefs.







You can't see it well in the photo, but the background on the red roses has white on white scenes of Paris!


Wednesday, October 16, 2013

God, Faith, and Onions

I finished reading The Brothers Karamazov by Fyodor Dostoevsky, considered one of the best novels of all time. Several months ago I finished an equally thick book, American Gods, by Neil Gaiman. It has won the Hugo and Nebula awards.

Dostoevsky is a favorite writer of Pope Francis. The Brothers Karamazov was cited in a recent New York Times article as an example of literature that teaches readers to better understand human nature. Gaiman is a contemporary fantasy writer, and American Gods is considered his masterpiece so far. People either love it, or they hate it.

Dostoevsky
The Brothers Karamazov is a family drama about a man and his three sons. The father is murdered, and the eldest son is accused of the murder.

Father Karamazov is a reprehensible drunk and womanizer who married two woman and raped another, fathering four sons. The women died of neglect, and his children only survived because maternal relatives rescued them. He does have a way with money, but has no intention of sharing it with his sons.
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As a girl I loved the character of Alyosha, the youngest brother who leaves the monastery to serve the needs of his troubled family. He knows he shares his family's tumultuous character and does not hold himself above them.

Some of the most beautiful language in the book surrounds Alyosha's mystic transformation when he grapples with his faith. His spiritual father, Father Zossima, has died but his sainthood is questioned when the corpse begins to smell.

Alyosha's faith crisis leads him to Grushenka, who had been seduced as a girl, abandoned by her family, and taken as a mistress of an older rich man who teaches her the money lending business. She had planned to corrupt the high minded young monk. Alyosha calls her sister, an act that begins her redemption. She tells him an old Russian folk tale about sufferers in Hell crying for release. They are asked what one good deed they had ever done. A woman says she once gave an onion to a starving person. The angel holds the onion to the woman, who grasps it and is raised from her torment. Grushenka tells Alyosha he has held to her an onion and has saved her.

From this they both experience a new found self-identity and faith. Alyosha returns to the monastery and in prayer vigil over Father Zossima has a dream. He wakes and runs outdoors:

 "...his soul, overflowing with rapture, yearned for freedom, space, openness. The vault of heaven, full of soft shining stars, stretched vast and fathomless above him. The Milky Way ran in two pale streams from the zenith to the horizon. The fresh, motionless, still night enfolded the earth. The white towers and golden domes of the cathedral gleamed out against the sapphire sky. The gorgeous autumn flowers, in the beds round the house, were slumbering till morning. The silence of the earth seemed to melt into the silence of the heavens. The mystery of earth was one with the mystery of the stars..."

Alyosha throws himself to the earth in sobbing and rapture, an ecstasy from experiencing "threads from all those innumerable worlds of God, linking his soul to them, and it was trembling all over "in contact with other worlds." He longed to forgive every one and for everything and to beg forgiveness. Oh, not for himself, but for all men, for all and everything." 

Father Zossima had told Alyosha his place is in the world, helping his brothers. Alyosha leaves the sanctuary of the monastery and puts on European dress to find his true calling.
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Ivan is Alyosha's elder brother. Their mother turned to a fervent faith in her despair over her husband's treatment. Ivan is a nihilist, influenced by European thought of the time, and believes that 'everything is lawful'. Ivan and Katrina, Dimitri's fiance, fall in love. But she is too proud to admit it, and sticks to Dimitri even when he rejects her for Grushenka. Her 'love' for Dimitri is only pride, for when she had offered her body for his financial help to aid her father, he gave her the money without exacting the payment of her virginity.

Ivan's 'poem' The Grand Inquisitor, told to Alyosha, is the most famous scene in the book. Here is Sir John Gielgud as the Inquisitor  performing the scene: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=om6HcUUa8DI. The message is that mankind does not want freedom or free will, but only to be fed, and so God/Jesus Christ chose a path to failure. Ivan grapples with his complicity in his father's murder, and lapses into brain fever, conversing with the Devil. 
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Dimitri is the oldest brother whose military career has been curtailed by his proliferate life and anger management problems. He shares his father's appetites, yet holds a high sense of honor. After his mother's death he is rescued by the family servant Grigory who takes care of him until his mother's cousin takes him in. Dimitri only meets his father again when he comes of age and returns to claim his mother's inheritance. He meets his father's business partner Gruskenka and falls in lust for her. But his father offers Dimitri's inheritance to Grushenka if she comes to his bed. Gruskenka toys with them both, holding on to a girl's fantasy of her seducer returning like a white knight to rescue her. An epic battle begins.
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The last brother, Smerdykov, is an illegitimate son fathered on the village idiot and brought into the household by the childless servant Grigory. He has epilepsy, as did Dostoevsky. He tries to gain Ivan's approval, and covertly suggests a plan to kill their father and steal the money set aside for Grushenka's favors. 

The father is murdered, and all evidence points to Dimitri who had publicly raged his hate against his father. His brothers and the two women who loved him waffle over their belief in his innocence...except Alyosha who totally believes Dimitri could not have murdered his own father.
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The book is about the trial and outcome. It is about the inner souls of these brothers. It is about women who prefer self-laceration to love. It is about faith and God and the church. It is about big ideas.

One of the street boys tells Alyosha, "God is only a hypothesis, but...I admit that He is needed...for the order of the universe and all that...and that if there were no God he would have to be invented." Alyosha chides that he has only repeating what he has heard. 

"Come, you want obedience and mysticism, " the boy answers, "You must admit that the Christian religion, for instance, had only been of use to the rich and powerful to keep the lower classes in slavery." 

"You know, Kolya, you will be very unhappy in your life," Alyosha warns.
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If the Grand Inquisitor believes humans create their own preferred gods, Neil Gaiman's book asks what happens to gods when people no longer believe in them.
File:American gods.jpg

The main character, Shadow, is an ex-con with nothing left to lose when he agrees to be chauffeur to the god Odin, who is trying to organize the Old Gods from Europe and Native America for an epic battle against Mr. Town and the New Age Gods.

"Religions are, by definition, metaphors after all: God is a dream, a hope, a woman, an ironist, a father, a city, a house of many rooms, a watchmaker who left his prize chronometer in the desert, someone who loves you--even, perhaps, against all evidence, a celestial being whose only interest is to make sure your football team, army, business, or marriage thrives, prospers and triumphs over all opposition. Religions are places to stand and look and act, vantage points from which to view the world...So, none of this is happening." So says the authorial voice before the battle.

But Shadow thinks, "People believe...It's what people do. They believe. And then they will not take responsibility for their beliefs; they conjure things, and do not trust the conjurations. People populate the darkness; with ghosts, with gods, with electrons, with tales. people imagine, and people believe: and it is that belief, that rock-solid belief, that makes things happen."

Odin asks Shadow to undergo a self sacrificial ritual after his death, where he is hung on the World Tree. Shadow learns that his whole life was orchestrated for this purpose. He was born and raised to be the sacrificial son for the father's resurrection.
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These books move us to consider what we believe individually and corporately as a country or a religious community. What gods do we worship, and keep alive by that worship? The new mythologies change--Nihilism and Science to Psychology to Consumerism. Have the old gods died? And what is faith, what people want, a temporary and changeable commodity? Is Free Will a stumbling block that eclipses God? Or do we yearn for certainties and blind faith as a retreat from the horrors of our choices?
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Father Zossima sends Alyosha down from the mountaintop communion with God into the world. The novel ends with a rallying cry that we may become the most degraded of people, but that one moment of true love for another can be our salvation.

All we need is to give one onion.






Saturday, October 12, 2013

Butterick Paris 1932 Fashion Pattern Catalog

Many years ago I picked up this catalog at a flea market in Allen, MI. It cost me $2.50!

It is dirty but all the pages are intact. In the back was a collection of a girl's paper dolls, made up of cut out fashion illustrations from other catalogs.


Fashions included masculine style sportswear, such as Katherine Hepburn wore. Trousers were wide legged and high waisted--yet were considered "narrower legged than before. The silhouette was slim, with a defined waist. "Today our skirt is as slim as a match stick--well, almost--and our shoulders are broad." Five o'clock frocks were "very dressy afternoon dresses with jackets" in a "regular" dress length. Jacket dresses were fitted and in length hit a few inches belong the hipbone. The new bathing suits were "just a pair of jersey shorts and a matching jersey Brassiere!"

Coat collars were smartly worn up. Buttons were used freely as trims. Navy gloves were the newest rage, along with berets pulled over one eye. Necklines were interesting, making necklaces superfluous, but bracelets and earrings were essential.

 Golf clothes were sporty slender dresses worn with comfortable shoes.


One pages boasts, "Fabrics You Can See Through will See You Smartly Through Summer." The dresses were made of heavy sheer crepe, georgette, triple layers of chiffon, and heavy silk.

Evening gowns were not to be longer than the instep length. They had high or low necks, with  bare arms and exposed shoulders.

"All Paris is wearing suits with high waistline skirts". The left style was called "the new gigolo style."


The patterns sold for a quarter "for the Depressed Purse" or for thirty-five cents as "aids for Broken Down Bank Books."

The fabrics of the season included:

  • Novelty Mesh, especially a white with bumpy black thread running through it in a check pattern. 
  • Dotted Lawn with red and blue dots on a white ground
  • Colonial prints on voile
  • Handkerchief Linen printed with polka dots
  • Amurise, a waffle weave for sportswear
  • Pique for tailored cotton dresses, suggested in tan, orange, or yellow
  • Printed Crepe in geometric patterns
  • Cotton Shantung for pajamas in red polka-dots on white
  • Pajama Cloth, a Bemberg that looks like wool but was cool and washable for sportswear
  • Matuca, a lightweight silk for spectator sportswear
  • Printed Crepe in a "town print" of navy blue with white print
  • Triple Sheer in black for evening wear
  • Irish Lace in red for a "gay summer dress"
  • Ribbed Cottons 
  • Sheer Woven Check for summer suits
  • Bedford Cord, "an old timer," for coats and suits
  • Seersucker, "ridiculous name!", "one of our smartest cottons!"




Color were blue, midnight blue, bright navy, and pale flax. Also yellow and lots of red and orange. For evening wear, they preferred white, with black, pink, and blue following.

The Summer Bride wanted a wedding gown in satin and lace, or silk crepe or taffeta. They were fitted, and could include a peplum, lace jacket, and a sheer long veil. Orange blossoms, white orchids, gardenias, roses, lilies of the valley, white lilacs and sweet peas were preferred flowers.


I love this hosiery ad on the inside back cover! But it looks dated in comparison to the fashions inside.


Friday, October 11, 2013

Peggy Cloth Book from 1947

I found this cloth book at the Royal Oak, MI flea market. It was badly stained but priced right. I used my Adobe Photoshop program to clean the pictures up. As I was working on it, I realized it was very, very familiar. If it had been mine as a baby, I would not remember it. But if I had read it to my younger brother that is a different story. I sure remember playing a lot of patty cake with my brother as his name starts with a "T" --Tommy!

This is how the cloth book cover looks photographed:


And these are how the illustrations look after I Photo-shopped them:



















Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Love Entwined and a New Embroidery Project!

I have been working on Esther Aliu's Love Entwined applique project. Esther designed a pattern for a remarkable 1790 quilt that appears in Avril Colby's book Patchwork Quilts, and until recently was lost to time. She only had a black and white photograph to work with. Esther has been able to locate the quilt and the Yahoo group making this pattern are encouraging the owner to exhibit it.

There are literally hundreds of people making Love Entwined, and hundreds of different interpretations in color and fabric choices. I found a lovely green for the background and am using fabrics from my stash for the applique. I have a polka dot theme going on in my fabric choices.




You can find out more about Esther at her blog http://estheraliu.blogspot.com/ or join the Yahoo group working on this block of the month pattern at http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/estheraliubom/info

I also started an embroidery project. I created original designs for The Wizard of Oz! Here are the completed blocks. I hope to make this quilt pattern available on my Etsy store, Rosemont Needle Arts. I have finished The Scarcrow and Glenda the Good Witch. I am working on Dorothy and Toto, with The Cowardly Lion, The Tin Man, and The Wicked Witch of the West waiting for me to get to them.