Wednesday, February 15, 2017

February 15, 1924 Vogue

Vogue Magazine February 15, 1924
Ninety-three years ago today Vogue offered A Forecast of Spring Fashions.

To put the fashions in context I researched what the world was like on February 15, 1924.

February 1924 events included the premier of  George Gershwin's Rhapsody in Blue in New York City. Gershwin's music melded popular music with symphonic music, starting a revolution. This year Leonard Slatkin of the Detroit Symphonic Orchestra has concentrated on the influence of Gershwin in a series called Gershwin and His Children. On October 3, 2016 we were at Orchestra Hall to hear Slatkin conduct Rhapsody in Blue--an amazing concert.

In Egypt, Howard Carter raised the lid of King Tut's stone sarcophagus revealing the gold mummy case.  Art Deco design was strongly influenced by Egyptian Art.

February 1924 saw the death of President Woodrow Wilson, the release of Mahatma Gandhi after two years imprisonment, and the birth of Margaret Truman to Harry and Bess and the birth of actor Lee Marvin. President Coolidge gave the first radio speech by a president.

1924 was the year Lenin died.  MGM and the National Hockey League, and the Macy's Thanksgiving Parade were born. J. Edgar Hoover was appointed head of the Bureau of Investigation. 

An immigration act was signed, severely limiting immigration from Southern and Eastern Europe, severely restricting immigration from Africa, and banning Asians and Arabs. 

President Coolidge also signed the Indian Citizen Act and after 302 years the war with the Indians ended. 

Edwin Hubble announced that Andromeda was a galaxy, which like the Milky Way is one of many, changing how we Earthlings saw our place in the universe.


"The Silhouette is Short, Straight, and Slender" was announced in the Forecast of Spring Fashions.

That was great for young girls.

But how did more mature women cope? 

First, they had to choose their clothes carefully, as some fashions added bulk and others skimmed the body.

Otherwise, it was all about the undergarments.

A dancing corset for the woman who needs hops and back held flat

This flesh colored brocade is ideal for rather heavy older women who require stiff boning
but have rejected the old fashioned, high busted types. The brassiere is of flesh batiste and net.

A girdle and brassiere of flesh colored satin are designed for the slim girl.
If the undergarments failed to provide the proper silhouette ladies could always try other means.
Rubber Reducing Garments

Even Maternity Clothes could 'avoid the obvious'.

Four rules for maternity clothes: avoid draping over the belly bulge, avoid bright colors, choose cape backs, and forgo heels

Home sewing patterns from Vogue featured godets for 'graceful movement.'
Fashions featured scarfs and the cloche hat, dropped waists, and deep V-necks.


 And of course the magazine included countless ads and photos of fashionable women.







The stylish shoe of 1924.

 This year the Michigan State Museum had an exhibit on the cloche hat which I wrote about here.










Babies and children also needed to be fashi0nable.
an 80 piece layette



The fashionable lady traveled in a fashionable way.



And they drove to fashionable luncheons.
 Wearing the latest perfume.



And makeup.
Maids and nurses apparently put comfort and freedom of movement over fashion.

The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald was published in 1925 and is set in 1922. These are the fashions that women wore as he was working on the novel.










Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Obsession and Love: Like Death by Guy de Maupassant

Elegantly translated from the French by Richard Howard, Guy de Maupassant's novel  Like Death  is set in late 19th c Paris but probes the human heart in a timeless revelation of the foibles of love.

"Fixed ideas have the gnawing tenacity of incurable diseases. Once within a soul they devour it..."

Oliver Bertin, rich, famous, and the recipient of many honors, had earned early fame with his painting Cleopatra. Early success curtailed his talent. Now on the threshold of old age, having painted all the society ladies, he is casting about for inspiration. He has been involved with the still beautiful Anne, the wife of a Count, since painting her portrait when a young woman. Theirs is a cozy friendship, over the early throes of romance, yet their love affair remains an important affirmation. But age brings regret for Bertin, ruing his lonely bachelorhood, while Ann notices every mark of age and fears Bertin will find a younger woman and yet marry.

Anne's daughter returns to the family home after years away at school. At eighteen, Annette is the image of her mother and charms Bertin with love for Anne all over again through the visual reminder of her youth.

Anne notes Bertin's increasing attention to her daughter, throwing her into a jealous obsession, while Bertin clings the more to Anne in a rekindled love. In the end, Bertin realizes he is an old man tormented by fruitless desire.

"Do we know, do we ever know why a woman's face suddenly has the power of a poison upon us?" 

Bertin's unhealthy love of his lover's daughter, and Anne's self-defeating hysteria over turning forty, do not separate them, but in the end brings them closer together.

I enjoyed my first foray into the novels of Guy de Maupassant. I think this story would translate beautifully to the screen as a historical drama with its theme of unhealthy obsession. I discovered this article in the New Yorker by Richard Brody addressing why de Maupassant's works are perfect for the screen: http://www.newyorker.com/culture/richard-brody/the-writer-who-sparks-the-finest-movie-adaptations

I received a free ebook from the publisher through Edelweiss in exchange for a fair and unbiased review.

Like Death
Guy de Maupassant
translated by Richard Howard
New York Review Book Classics
Publication Date February 14, 2017
$12,76
ISBN: 9781681370323

Sunday, February 12, 2017

What We Do Now: Standing Up for Your Values in Trump's America

The election of Donald Trump has been a wake-up call for complacent progressive liberals who were sure that 'it can't happen here' would never happen here. America has had its brief love affairs with the right before--Father Coughlan, Joe McCarthy, George Wallace--but as Dennis Johnson says in the introduction of  What We Do Now, "Americans have always, ultimately, resisted the call to calamity by listening, instead, to what Lincoln called 'the better angels of our nature.'"

My high school history teacher warned us that history is like a pendulum: it swings to extremes, settles in the center, but swings again. He predicted a new 'Victorian' age would follow the 1960s. And it did, and birthed the Evangelical Christian movement which was brought into the Republican party.

America established stunning progressive policies and elected the first non-white president. Concomitant, another movement was afoot which candidate Trump tapped into, and now in power, government is being dismantled by old rich white men in the name of the disenfranchised masses who put them in power.

What do progressives do now? "How can the defeated majority rouse itself to overcome its sincere grief and disillusionment?" Johnson asks.

Twenty-seven progressive leaders in brief essays offer strategies and hope for the struggle ahead.

Part One, Setting a New Liberal Agenda, begins with an essay on financial reform by Senator (and presidential candidate) Bernie Sanders. After the 'too big to fail bailout' three of the largest financial institutions are 80% bigger than before the bailout. Teddy Roosevelt, he writes, would say "Break 'em up."

Remarks to the AFL-CIO Executive Council by Senator Elizabeth Warren addresses the major issues facing Americans today, and reminds that 72% of Americans believe "the American economy is rigged to advantage the rich and powerful," including tax breaks for billionaires while rejecting a minimum living wage.

David Cole of the ACLU calls for an engaged citizenry and vigilant media and reminds that grassroots protests and activism can push change.

Racial Justice articles include Cornell William Brooks of the NAACP concerning voting rights and Brittany Packnett of Campaign Zero and Teach for America calling on white people to become aware of the privilege that protects them and to confront it.

Concerning Immigration,  Ilhan Omar, Somali American member of the Minnesota House of Representatives, reminds us that we are all emigrants and Cristina Jimenez of United We Dream addresses Undocumented immigrants.

Gloria Steinem's article under Women's Rights calls on media to take responsibility and rallies women to boycott Trump interests. Ilyse Houe of the NARAL reminds that "the history of social movements shows that the path to justice and equality is always marked by setbacks" and calls for women to take on leadership.

Civil Liberties articles include Anthony D. Romero of the ACLU calling to defend the Constitution and Trevor Timm of the Freedom of the Press Foundation addressing free speech and digital security under Trump.

Environmentalist Bill McKibben essay on Climate Change says science is not 'opinion' and "one man is preparing to bet the future of the planet in a long-shot wager against physics." Sierra Club director Michael Brune reminds that the president can't "alter the fact that both public opinion and the marketplace strongly favor clean energy" and calls to fight on state and local levels.

Religious Freedom is addressed by Linda Sarsour of the Arab American Association of New York who begins, "I am a Palestinian-Arab-Muslim-American, daughter of immigrants, a political activist, and a woman--basically, you don't want to be me in 2016." She calls for "perpetual outrage" at systemic and religious profiling and working on relationships. Rabbi Sharon Kleinbaum's pastoral essay on grief also reminds of small victories, She encourages education, strengthening personal faith, and connecting with others. M. Dove Kent, director of Jews for Racial & Economic Justice shares what she has learned about turning fear into power: grassroots organizing, focusing on the local level, partnering for the common good, understanding paths to power, participation, reconsidering financial paths of support, and working together.

Economics writers include Paul Krugman of the New York Times who warns against the belief that America has a divine providence that always returns to justice. Quietism and turning from politics is dangerous. Economist and professor Robert Reich, with experience as Clinton's Secretary of Labor and working under Presidents Ford and Carter, offers a first 100 days resistance agenda. I found his essay the most focused on direct actions citizen can take, with 14 points. John R. MacArthur of Harper's Magazine wants to "make blue states blue again." He considers free trade deals impact on American workers.

LGBTQ Rights essays include Rea Carey of the National LGBTQ Task Force, writes, "Let's dust each other off and start our journey again...together." Mara Keisling of the National Center for Transgender Equality calls to continue the fight for justice.

Media Malpractice 2016 by Katrina vanden Heuvel of The Nation calls for an accountable media that puts public interest over profit, and an obliteration of lines between news and entertainment.  Allan J. Lichtman of American University considers the misuse of polls by the media. I found his article of particular interest with its critique of the failure of Democrats and insight into what the party should do next and his call for a new way of campaigning with articulated policy. (Amen!) Author George Saunders addresses 'the Megaphone,' how ideas become dominant and change thought. "What I propose...is simply: awareness of the Megaphonic tendency, and discussion of same." In other words, Media Literacy.

Part Two is Reframing the Message. Linguist George Lakoff breaks down how "Trump used the brains of people listening to him to his advantage" through repetition, framing, familiar examples, grammar, and metaphor. It is a fascinating essay. He then considers how the media is complicate and how journalists can become more accurate in language. His example is that regulations protect public from harm and fraud; calling for an end of 'regulations' sounds less threatening that calling for an end to 'protections.'

Nato Thompson of Creative Time essay on the role of Artists and Social Justice reminds that artists articulate what it means to feel in this world and that their work is vital.

Dave Eggers' essay Travels Through Post-Election America in the Coda, to me, was particularly meaningful. He writes about his encounters with Trump America, including in Detroit, sharing people's stories. 110,000 Michigan voters did not choose a presidential candidate. Clinton lost Michigan by 13,107 votes. Those are telling statistics. Eggers writes, "Because the voting had split so dramatically along racial lines, how could an African American of Latino pass a white person on the street..and not wonder, "Which side are you on?"

That really got to me. It was my life after the election. Knowing my county went Democratic but my state put Trump in the White House, I felt, well, guilty. We went to a multi-cultural Thanksgiving community event at a Buddhist Temple where we heard grateful refugees tell harrowing stories.

I was extra nice to the people of color in line at Aldi, to the immigrant clerk at CVS. And I noted that others were also on better, more aware behavior. A man held a door open for me, respectfully, as if to say "I don't denigrate women." People were small talking. My community is small town like, but we usually proscribe to 'don't look 'em in the eye, don't talk to them.' I felt we were telling each other messages, making connections, countering the threat of hate.

Perhaps there is hope. If we can see each other, know each other, help each other, fight for each other. Maybe we will be stronger for this setback.

I received a free ebook from the publisher through Edelweiss in exchange for a fair and unbiased review.

What We Do Now: Standing Up for Your Values in Trump's America
ed. Dennis Johnson
Melville House