Wednesday, February 15, 2017

February 15, 1924 Vogue

Vogue Magazine February 15, 1924
Ninety-three years ago today Vogue offered A Forecast of Spring Fashions.

To put the fashions in context I researched what the world was like on February 15, 1924.

February 1924 events included the premier of  George Gershwin's Rhapsody in Blue in New York City. Gershwin's music melded popular music with symphonic music, starting a revolution. This year Leonard Slatkin of the Detroit Symphonic Orchestra has concentrated on the influence of Gershwin in a series called Gershwin and His Children. On October 3, 2016 we were at Orchestra Hall to hear Slatkin conduct Rhapsody in Blue--an amazing concert.

In Egypt, Howard Carter raised the lid of King Tut's stone sarcophagus revealing the gold mummy case.  Art Deco design was strongly influenced by Egyptian Art.

February 1924 saw the death of President Woodrow Wilson, the release of Mahatma Gandhi after two years imprisonment, and the birth of Margaret Truman to Harry and Bess and the birth of actor Lee Marvin. President Coolidge gave the first radio speech by a president.

1924 was the year Lenin died.  MGM and the National Hockey League, and the Macy's Thanksgiving Parade were born. J. Edgar Hoover was appointed head of the Bureau of Investigation. 

An immigration act was signed, severely limiting immigration from Southern and Eastern Europe, severely restricting immigration from Africa, and banning Asians and Arabs. 

President Coolidge also signed the Indian Citizen Act and after 302 years the war with the Indians ended. 

Edwin Hubble announced that Andromeda was a galaxy, which like the Milky Way is one of many, changing how we Earthlings saw our place in the universe.


"The Silhouette is Short, Straight, and Slender" was announced in the Forecast of Spring Fashions.

That was great for young girls.

But how did more mature women cope? 

First, they had to choose their clothes carefully, as some fashions added bulk and others skimmed the body.

Otherwise, it was all about the undergarments.

A dancing corset for the woman who needs hops and back held flat

This flesh colored brocade is ideal for rather heavy older women who require stiff boning
but have rejected the old fashioned, high busted types. The brassiere is of flesh batiste and net.

A girdle and brassiere of flesh colored satin are designed for the slim girl.
If the undergarments failed to provide the proper silhouette ladies could always try other means.
Rubber Reducing Garments

Even Maternity Clothes could 'avoid the obvious'.

Four rules for maternity clothes: avoid draping over the belly bulge, avoid bright colors, choose cape backs, and forgo heels

Home sewing patterns from Vogue featured godets for 'graceful movement.'
Fashions featured scarfs and the cloche hat, dropped waists, and deep V-necks.


 And of course the magazine included countless ads and photos of fashionable women.







The stylish shoe of 1924.

 This year the Michigan State Museum had an exhibit on the cloche hat which I wrote about here.










Babies and children also needed to be fashi0nable.
an 80 piece layette



The fashionable lady traveled in a fashionable way.



And they drove to fashionable luncheons.
 Wearing the latest perfume.



And makeup.
Maids and nurses apparently put comfort and freedom of movement over fashion.

The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald was published in 1925 and is set in 1922. These are the fashions that women wore as he was working on the novel.










Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Obsession and Love: Like Death by Guy de Maupassant

Elegantly translated from the French by Richard Howard, Guy de Maupassant's novel  Like Death  is set in late 19th c Paris but probes the human heart in a timeless revelation of the foibles of love.

"Fixed ideas have the gnawing tenacity of incurable diseases. Once within a soul they devour it..."

Oliver Bertin, rich, famous, and the recipient of many honors, had earned early fame with his painting Cleopatra. Early success curtailed his talent. Now on the threshold of old age, having painted all the society ladies, he is casting about for inspiration. He has been involved with the still beautiful Anne, the wife of a Count, since painting her portrait when a young woman. Theirs is a cozy friendship, over the early throes of romance, yet their love affair remains an important affirmation. But age brings regret for Bertin, ruing his lonely bachelorhood, while Ann notices every mark of age and fears Bertin will find a younger woman and yet marry.

Anne's daughter returns to the family home after years away at school. At eighteen, Annette is the image of her mother and charms Bertin with love for Anne all over again through the visual reminder of her youth.

Anne notes Bertin's increasing attention to her daughter, throwing her into a jealous obsession, while Bertin clings the more to Anne in a rekindled love. In the end, Bertin realizes he is an old man tormented by fruitless desire.

"Do we know, do we ever know why a woman's face suddenly has the power of a poison upon us?" 

Bertin's unhealthy love of his lover's daughter, and Anne's self-defeating hysteria over turning forty, do not separate them, but in the end brings them closer together.

I enjoyed my first foray into the novels of Guy de Maupassant. I think this story would translate beautifully to the screen as a historical drama with its theme of unhealthy obsession. I discovered this article in the New Yorker by Richard Brody addressing why de Maupassant's works are perfect for the screen: http://www.newyorker.com/culture/richard-brody/the-writer-who-sparks-the-finest-movie-adaptations

I received a free ebook from the publisher through Edelweiss in exchange for a fair and unbiased review.

Like Death
Guy de Maupassant
translated by Richard Howard
New York Review Book Classics
Publication Date February 14, 2017
$12,76
ISBN: 9781681370323