Hmong Story Cloths: History, Culture, and Art

The Hmong people have struggled to preserve their ethnic identity for centuries, pressured to leave China for Laos in the mid-1800s. During the Vietnam War the Hmong people of Laos assisted the American Troops. America left Laos and in 1975 the royal government fell to the Communists, who persecuted the Hmong. Perhaps 100,000 Hmong died in the conflict and the Communist persecution. The Hmong fled to Thailand where they lived in refugee camps.

In the refugee camps the Hmong women created Story Cloths, appliqué and embroidered art depicting their old way of life, the Communist persecution, and their escape to the refugee camps.

America accepted Hmong immigrants in the late 1970s, with about 150,000 settling in the US; about 5,000 settled in Philadelphia and Eastern Pennsylvania. It was a time of economic distress and many Americans resented the special treatment the Hmong received from the government. The extent of the Hmong people's support to America during Vietnam was not well known.

Since we lived in Philly in the 1970s and 1980s I was familiar with the Hmong and their reverse appliqué and Story Cloths. I requested Hmong Story Cloths by Linda A. Gerdner to learn more about the Hmong and their amazing appliquéd historical documents.

Gerdner has worked with the Hmong and traveled to Laos and has an extensive collection of Story Cloths, cultural artifacts, and photographs.

Gerdner first offers a background to the Hmong people, their history, and how they created their Story Cloths. Beautiful photography of the whole cloths and significant details accompany the text. Chapters address specific Story Cloth themes, including The Hmong People's Journey, Traditional Life in Laos, the Hmong New Year, Hmong Folktales, and Neighboring Ethnic People. The detail in the cloths can be overwhelming but Gerdner's analysis explains the message and significance of the motifs.

In an interview with the Hmong Times, Gerdner gave her purpose for writing this book:

• As a tribute to a special cohort of Laotian Hmong who created a new form of textile art as a means of sharing their cultural heritage
• As a legacy for subsequent generations of Hmong Americans who wish to learn about their historical and cultural heritage
• To promote cultural awareness and understanding for those who do not have a Hmong heritage
• To pay tribute to the extraordinary needlework skills that were used to create this new art form

The book can be enjoyed on many levels: as a social and cultural study, a history, and as a study of a particular art and craft.

I received a free ebook from the publisher through NetGalley in exchange for a fair and unbiased review.

Hmong Story Cloths
Linda A. Gerdner, PhD
Schiffer Publications
$34.99 hard cover
266 color and B&W photos
ISBN:9780764348594

1857 Album Quilt

Here are the 1857 Album quilt blocks so far. I was feeling I was pretty boring compared to the great original takes I see on the Facebook 1857 group. But I see that using colors similar to the original quilt will work out just fine! Thanks to Gay Boomers of Sentimental Stitches for offering the patter of her historic quilt!

Southwest China Quilts at Michigan State University

Phoenix appliqué detail. Some of the fabrics were twill, others looked like handkerchiefs

My weekly quilt group went on a field trip to the Michigan State Museum in East Lansing to see Quilts of Southwest China on the last day of the exhibit.

In southwest China traditional bed coverings are made of small pieces of appliquéd fabric. MSU and the Yunnan Nationalities Museum in Kuning documented this folk tradition. 

 The traditional motifs include fish, scorpion, birds, crabs and other animals.

Fish appliqué detail

Piece work in a potholder style construction, individually constructed blocks sewn together

 

Several quilts included appliqué outlined in embroidery.

A traditional Chinese bed with bed coverings

Paper pattern templates on the right

 

Some of the bed coverings had large additional borders to hang over the side of modern beds. The flanges are limp as these bed coverings had no batting. The appliqué made the centers stiffer.

The exhibit will travel nationally after its debut at the MSU Museum.  Hear curator Dr. Marsha McDowell talk about the exhibit:
http://wkar.org/post/msu-s-china-experience-also-covers-art-quilts#stream/0

Laura Heine's Original Applique

Among the many vendors at the American Quilt Society show in Grand Rapids was Fiberworks  in Billings, MT, owned by designer and Laura Heine, Her enchanting animals made of floral appliqués brought us back to her booth for another look.

 The patterns are available alone or in kits with the fabrics required for the quilts as shown.

She layers fussy cut floral fabrics to make the bodies of the animals, paying attention to how design elements in the fabric can suggest details such as fur, feathers, and facial features.

 She has patterns for wall hangings and bed size quilts.

Her designs are fresh and modern, suitable for children of all ages.

Hawaiian-Inspired, American Themed

In her new book Creating Hawaiian-Inspired Quilts, Judith Sandstrom has adapted traditional, large scale, symmetrical Hawaiian appliqué patterns to paper-cut designs manageable for quilters of all skill levels.

The motifs are 'pure American', including butterflies, tulips, daffodils and bluebirds, Christmas Cactus, and Christmas themes.

She offers a new technique for pattern transfer with step-by-step photographs. Needed supplies and basic directions for making the quilts are included.

Innovations include incorporating more than one color in the appliqué and using several different design elements to make the appliqué. Patterns make wall to twin bed sized quilts. Several of the bed size patterns include pieced blocks.

Sandstrom begins with an overview of traditional quilt making in Hawaii and photographs of the contemporary Hawaiian quilts that are her inspiration.

The 26 patterns included in the book are:

• Hawaiian Seas four patterns: scallop shell and starfish; Angel Fish and coral; crab and Stingray; turtle and jellyfish
• Hawaiian Christmas with four blocks including bell and angel; snowman and wreath; candelabra, cane and star; tree gingerbread man, and Holly leaf
• Christmas Cactus wall hanging 
• Hibiscus and Tulip Bouquet 57" x 57" quilt
• May Maze wall hanging
• Butterfly Trails wall quilt
• Four Color Tulips 43" x 43"
• Tahitian Dream twin/full size
• Exotic Purple Lily twin size
• Amazing Amaryllis twin size
• Daffodils and Bluebirds twin size

I made a Hawaiian sampler quilt in my early days of quiltmaking.

 

I decided to try Sandstrom's method and chose the Christmas angle and bell block. My block is hand appliquéd but Sandstrom notes that one can also machine appliqué. The patterns can also be used with fusible appliqué.

Hand appliqué is traditional and a favorite method of mine.

(Note: The pattern was altered from the original as I forgot to cut out a section in the bell.)

I folded the background fabric as suggested and traced the pattern on the appliqué fabric according to her method.

I used spray starch on the appliquéd red fabric to give it more weight and make it easier to handle.

Using small scissors with a sharp point I cut the fabric on the traced lines.

I situated the appliqué on the fold lines on the background fabric. Small appliqué pins held it down as I basted the appliqué to the fabric, then the pins were removed.

Using thread to match the appliqué piece I needle-turned the fabric, making small clips at inside curves. It took me two evenings, about four hours, to complete.

I had trouble with the very narrow part of the bell clapper. So I would warn to be sure not to skimp when cutting that part; it can always be trimmed later. And be sure not to take too deep a turn when sewing down one side or you will find there is not enough seam allowance on the other side!

The patterns are very original and cute. I wonder if I can make just one?

I thank Schiffer Publications for a free book in exchange for a fair and unbiased review.

Creating Hawaiian-Inspired Quilts
by Judith Sandstrom
Schiffer Publications
ISBN: 9780764348587
$16.99 soft cover
80 pages; 83 color images

See contemporary Hawaiian quilts at Quilt Inspiration 

1942 Military Designs from "Press-On Fabric Decorating and Mending"

The 1942 book Press-On Fabric Decorating and Mending includes military themes patterns.  I love the gal pictured above--a Rosie the Riveter--reporting to work with her lunch box and military insignia on her sleeve.

 These nautical appliqués are not quite authentic WWII "Navy" but darling.

 

Thanks to my friend Bev for sharing this treasure!

"Press-On Fabric Decorating and Mending With a Flat Iron" from 1942

My quilting friend Bev has been sorting out her treasures and came across this gem. She allowed me to scan the pages. The booklet was published in 1942. Today I will share the patterns for adults and children. Tomorrow I will share the military themed patterns.

There are drawings showing garments with the different motifs used as decoration.

 Soldiers appear throughout the booklet. Below they have notived the girl.