Women's Concerns in 1912

Another Royal Oak Flea Market find is The Coates Sewing and Dress Making Manual, published by Lydia Trattles Coates of  L. T. Coates & Company, Cleveland, Ohio, in 1912.

The introduction begins,

"Many women go without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get their garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming, non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting."

Beginning with that very long sentence, the Introduction continues on to explain that this "simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled--without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions."

The booklet of 96 pages consists of a multitude of advertisements and illustrated 'lessons' on "Plain and Fancy Stitches," "Working Instructions," "Necessary Sewing and Dressmaking Accessories," "Complete Instructions for Specific Work," "Sponging, Shrinking, and Pressing," "Cutting," "Fitting and Alterations," "The Well Groomed Woman," "Milady's Wardrobe," "Maternity Outfit," "School Girl Supplies," Children's Clothes," "Infant's Outfits," and Cleaning, Dyeing, and Laundering.

The Lessons look like this:

 There are diagrams of clothing patterns.

 We can see 1912 style trends in the illustrations.

Suit Jacket

Shirt Waist

Dressing Saque

 "Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make," Lesson 87 begins.

 The Kimona, a traditional Filipino style, looks quite easy as well.

 The essential corset covers and 'drawers'.

Maternity Gown

"Have plenty of white petticoats plain or elaborate to match your
other lingerie of our outfit, but have them made the proper length to wear with your
hose and evening gowns. For your street, business, and traveling gowns,
silk, heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable."

The advertisements tell us about women's concerns a hundred years ago.

"Laxative Bran Biscuits - do the work "The samples you gave me were delicious"" reads the Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co. ad. They were considered part of a good diet and a health food.

Now that Milady is regular, it is time to deal with that sagging skin. Luckily, Ganesh has come out of India with treatments for tired eyes, frown lines, and radiant skin.

Ganesh for Loveliness

What was Oxydonor was exactly? The drawing shows a tank and a contact disk that attached to the ankle. The ad reads, "This wonderful little appliance, invented by Dr. H. Ache for the purpose of healing the sick, performs cures, which border on miracles," thus writes Edward Rigby of Lisbon, OH." The Oxydonor was invented by Dr Hercules Sanche of Detroit and patented June, 24, 1890.

A little research on the patent shows that the disk was strapped to Milady's ankle! The tank was filled with ice water! Imagine the miracles that ensued from cold ankles.

Perhaps Milady is intrigued by Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray, "The most wonderful improvement ever made in a syringe. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for." Now, that is vague. Dare we think the 'uses' were not to be named in polite society? Wait, it is suggested "A lady, in washing dirt from the porch, will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it."

But it also has "The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment which has a sponge in it, and when it is desired to use an antiseptic or sanitive treatment in connection with a douche, all that is required is to drop your medicine onto the Sponge in the cup, screw on the cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe whose stream of water is medicated with the medicine."

I am baffled to think Milady would want a vaginal douche that had the same force necessary to "drive everything before it" when cleaning her porch!

What would Milady put onto her Faucet Syringe sponge? "Sanar, the Wonderful Cleansing, Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weaknesses." Female weaknesses? "Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the most delicate" tissues and won't burn. Every married lady needed Sanar.

The Coates people admonished Milady that "There is one small article that no woman should be without and that is a Sanitary Belt, but there are many makeshifts on the market, but they are most unsatisfactory, as unless they are properly constructed they either will not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place, but a well made belt can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure."

Ladies are warned against the "ruinous habit" of employing safety pins instead purchasing Improved Sanitary Belts with a no-slip clasp.

Improved Sanitary Belt

In case the Improved Sanitary Belt fails, best to have "an article every woman will welcome," a waterproof skirt shield.

The AMA

When Milady is properly appareled and protected, her thoughts turn to her household obligations. "Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home," Milady is warned, but The Domestic is there to save the day.

After Milady's work is done, she must use her free time to beautiful the home. Embroidery is just the activity. Just buy six skeins of Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk and receive a "fully illustrated lesson" for a pillow outfit for 25 cents.

I have a collection ot Richardson's Grecian Silk Floss stored in a vintage magazine, a gift from a lady. I wrote about it here.

Most important of all maternal concernts was the health of growing girls. You know how 'nervous, sickly, and weak' they can be. Zoa-Phora is just what is needed. This was another Kalamazoo, Michigan invention. The Coates booklet on page 95 notes that the product had been around for 50 years, was made of a vegetable compound, "does not make drug fiends," and the formula is available upon request. "Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body, especially the sexual organism." 

No alcohol, opiates, narcotics or dangerous or harmful drugs! What a rarity! But what was in Zoa-phora? According to the National Museum of American History:

• Mandrake root is hallucinogenic and narcotic. In sufficient quantities, it induces a state of unconsciousness and was used as an anaesthetic for surgery in ancient times. 
• Black cohosh has been used to treat symptoms of menopause, premenstrual syndrome (PMS), painful menstruation, acne, weakened bones (osteoporosis), and for starting labor in pregnant women.
• Blue cohosh is used for starting labor, menstruation, inflammation of the uterus and also for muscle spasms, colic, cramps, and hysteria
• Life root has been used as a traditional medicine to hasten labor and relieve labor pains. Use is not recommended; the plant is toxic and possibly carcinogenic.
• Roman chamomile is used for digestive disorders, morning sickness, and painful menstrual periods.
• False unicorn is used for treating ovarian cysts, menstrual problems, menopausal symptoms, vomiting from pregnancy, and infertility. 
• Cramp bark is used for relieving menstrual cramps and cramps during pregnancy.

The Kalamazoo Antique Bottle Club article tells us that Zoa-phora contained as much alcohol as a bottle of whiskey! It was invented by a Methodist minister turned homeopathic physician, Dr. Richard Pengelly, whose wife, Mary was the leader of the local Women's Christian Temperance Union and a champion of women's rights. Apparently, The Dr. kept Mary in the dark about what was in Zoa-Phora.

Mary Elizabeth House Pengelly

So many changes over a hundred years!

Girls Who Wear Glasses

In I Haven't A Thing to Wear, 1968 fashion guru Judith Keith offers advice to us gals who wear glasses.

Keith begins, "One way of falling flat on your face is by not wearing eyeglasses when you need them...Don't be near-sighted about the opportunities for a fashionable look with eyeglasses. Broaden your vision to include a wardrobe of frames to magnify the importance of even the simplest look."

More seriously, she advises on choosing glasses according to face shape:

• Oval: you can wear anything.
• Round: slender, up-tilting lines break up the roundness of a round face. 
• Avocado shaped faces need width at the brow to counterbalance a large jaw. 
• Square faces need curves and round shapes.
• Rectangular faces needs the illusion of width. A straight-across-the-top wide frame with rounded lower edges will do this.
• Heart shaped faces do well with square frames.
• Diamond shaped faces need frames wider on the top.
• A long, narrow face needs large round frames.

Keith notes that she had a friend who had glasses made with fabric swatches to match her outfits. Now that is a slave to fashion!

My first glasses were cats eye shaped in clear plastic with pink and blue flakes. Mom had identical ones. We both had permed Bubble Cuts, like the second Barbie doll. And wore matching mom & daughter plaid shirts. I was about six or seven. I suppose we were 'fashionable'.

I come from a family of girls who wear glasses.

My grandmother Emma Becker Gochenour wore round glasses in the 1920s. 

My grandmother Gochenour in the 1970s

Mom in the early 1950s

Mom in the 1970s. I can't believe Dad dressed that way!

Me in glasses around 1960; that's my lil' brother next to me

Me in cat eye glasses around 1962

Early 1970s. I married a guy with glasses, too.

Me when glasses were BIG and so was hair.

This 1968 ad suggests that eyeglasses were sexy. I missed that message.

1968 was the year Mom got me contact lens. Hard and weighted, they were mighty uncomfortable. I was told I could have them tinted brown, blue or green. I went with green! After a few years I gave them up.

In her book Keith wrote, "My first contact lens reminded me somewhat of my first girdle. I hated wearing them! They were uncomfortable, cumbersome, and I always wanted to remove them in the middle of an evening. Today, however, foundation garments and contact lens are geared for both color and comfort. The plastic lenses may be tinted to any shade you wish and Lycra, a modern man-made fiber, makes a modern woman firmer."

I tried the gas permeable lenses later, but they moved with every blink and made reading hard. I gave them up. I have never wanted to try them again. Glasses suit me fine.

Are you a girl who wears glasses?

Let's Get Looped: 1968 Advice on How to Wear a Scarf

At a library book sale I chanced upon a slim volume titled I Haven't a Thing to Wear: or getting down to basics in fashion and beauty by Judith Keith with Sandy Sprung. Published in 1968 the author was "dubbed the Fashionable Fraud." Keith was a popular lecturer, with a background in advertising, acting, editor, publishing and PR. The book is richly illustrated with amazing line drawings.

Today I am sharing advice from her 17 pages on how to wear a scarf.

I had a collection of scarfs back in 1968. They were very popular for many years, which is why every thrift shop has loads in stock. Wait until you see what can be done with them!

Keith begins with a tip for keeping scarfs in place: she sews a loop into her clothing! She used a self-belt loop or made a loop with fabric from a deep hem; one she suggests also using ribbon, leather, or felt.

She sewed the loop inside the neckline facing, brought the loop up and over the neck, then pinned the loop to the outside of the garment. When you didn't want to wear a scarf the loop was tucked back behind the garment.

She used one loop for a jewel neckline, two for scoop and bateau, and one at the bottom of the V neckline. One could also loop jewelry through the loops, or a bow.

The loop technique can also be used on sleeves and hems to add edgings of ruffles, fringe, lace, and bows.

• Bateau Flounce: Lift a 24" or 30" square scarf in the center. Pull through one's bra strap and out over the neckline. Tuck end under flounce. "Plunge a pin through the flounce to secure."
• Flower Flounce: follow same directions as for basic flounce; bring end of scarf out over the flounce. Widen the end into a well and secure in place with a small pin for a flower effect.

The Basic Scarf Fold: lay flat; fold ends into center and overlap. Double again for narrower effect. Scarf will lay neat and flat on neck. Variation: make a square knot and wear as a simple tie.

Bra-Cross: Using a 24" or 30" scarf in the basic fold, drape around neck, cross ends in front, secure around bra straps. "Looks smashing" under a cowl, ring, or stand-u collars.

Pussycat Bow: A 24" scarf makes a smaller, tighter bow; a 36" scarf a softer one. Make basic fold. Pull scarf part way through loop. Widen bow to create fullness. Accent with pin. Use silk crepe or twills for firmer bows and chiffon for wispier ones.

Blithe Spirit: Using two scarfs, tie ends together into full, fussy tie. Secure to the front of the dress and toss panels over the shoulder. Use two matching or complementary scarfs. Or pull a single chiffon or silk crepe oblong through loop and fling backwards.

• Pleated Flounce: Use 36" squares. Hold scarf taut in both hands. Accordion pleat by folding back and forth. Drape around neck, pull through loop and separate folds for a soft fall.
• Ring Flounce: Make a pleated flounce, then pull scarf up at shoulders.
• Jabot Flounce: make a pleated flounce; shorten one end, pulling it over the longer end. Anchor with pin.

Smoke Rings are circle scarfs, cut and sewn on the bias which permits stretching. They slip over the heat and can be used as a headband, hat band, or around the neck held by pins.

• Side Sweep: drop over head, pull through loop.
• Dropped Bow: Pull through loop without dropping over head.
• Jabot: Pull through loop, bringing shorter end over longer end. Pin.
• Shoulder Flounce: Pull Smoke Ring through a bra strap.
• The Elizabethan: The dramatic Elizabethan look is created b draping smoke rings over turtlenecks. Fold smoke ring in half lengthwise. Drape inner fold inside neckline and the outer fold over turtleneck. 
• Smoke Ring Epaulet: Attach a pin to the shoulder of dress and pull a smoke ring through.

Knotted Ascot: Lift a 24" or 30" square directly in center and knot. Flip scarf over so the knot is inside. The knot should be centered. Pull any two ends taut. Tie ends in back of neck. Tuck under collar. If there is no collar, pin ends in back to keep neat. Tuck lower end into bra and secure.

The Vaquero: Fold scarf into triangle, point forward. Bring ends to front and tie as in Sketch 15.

V-Necklines are perfect for round faces, short necks, heavy bosoms or jowls. 

• Criss-Cross: Oblong or 36" square with basic fold, bring around neck and criss cross under bosom. Pin to bra.
• V-Loop: Pull scarf through loop sewn into bottom of "v". Drape ends out and over."A lady at EXPO '67 told Keith she had sewn loops into her bra!)
• V-Bows: Pull scarf through loop and tie into flowing bow.

The 1970s were noted for women using scarfs and handkerchiefs for blouses. Tiny women, I am sure. Keith showed how to create the Scarf Blouse, which was "perfect for traveling and when you are tired of the blouses you have." Fold 36" square into a triangle. (For larger women use a square of wide fabric.) Sew snaps into the top of the triangle. Snap and drop over head. Tie the other two ends around the waist. Add a jacket. 

"...the scarf is cool, comfortable, and no one knows the difference unless you take the jacket off!"

Use two 36" chiffon squares for another look.

The Scarf Dickey could be used under a jacket or without. Use a 48" oblong scarf. Criss-cross, overlapping ends and stitch to a ribbon or belt to circle the waist. Gather in soft folds and stitch. Keith note one could try dickies in felt, brocade, velvet; appliqué, embroider, trim and "fringe at will". 

In another post I will share Judith Keith's advice on accessories.

Read newspaper article about Keith on Goggle newspapers:

https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2199&dat=19810426&id=yakyAAAAIBAJ&sjid=8-cFAAAAIBAJ&pg=6737,5418476&hl=en

https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=266&dat=19610211&id=yc0wAAAAIBAJ&sjid=59wFAAAAIBAJ&pg=2466,3809341&hl=en

Sandy Sprung wrote for Married With Children and other television shows:

http://marriedwithchildren.wikia.com/wiki/Sandy_Sprung